At William May, we love timeless and stylish jewellery, and what could be more enduring than the signet ring. The history of signet rings is filled with gravitas, secret meanings, and personal significance. Read our full guide to signet rings to find out why these rings remain an iconic piece of jewellery and why they are sometimes called “the gentleman’s ring”.
What is a signet ring?
Signet rings are traditionally oval shaped flat rings with a raised or engraved design. These rings were used to sign documents by pressing the ring into wax to create the image of the engraved design. Unsurprisingly the word signet comes from the Latin word ‘Signum’ which means sign. Sealing a document with a ring was viewed as official and authentic just like signatures today. Signet rings were expensive to make and often owned by society’s powerful families which meant they were not easy to forge, and the seal could provide authenticity.
The History of Signet Rings
The use of signet rings dates back to ancient Egyptian times, where they were originally carved in stone and pottery. Only the Pharaoh of Egypt wore a gold ring which was engraved with hieroglyphics of the gods. Later in the bronze age, signet rings started to resemble the ones we wear today and were commonly made of metal with slightly more embellishment to the design as craftsmen and goldsmiths became more skilled with the engravings and intricate designs they could make. By the end of the 19th century, most people were able to have a signet ring made, and they were no longer a piece of jewellery exclusively worn by the elite classes.
Today, as signet rings are no longer used to seal documents, their designs have become more ornate. Precious stones such as pave diamonds and colourful enamels are more popular, as well as bolder shapes such as marquise and modern engraving styles. The most popular signet ring shape is still the most classic oxford oval shape but, other shapes, such as cushion shape were also popular during the Victorian era. A round signet ring is now considered more modern than the traditional oval shape.
What does a signet ring mean?
Signet rings are still seen as symbols of family heritage as they often bear a monogram, family crest or a coat of arms. Their practical use for sealing a document is not relevant anymore but they have a rich history that has carried through to today’s jewellery trends. Signet rings are still worn to indicate membership of certain organisations, also they can be used to indicate a military rank. They are often bought as popular graduation presents, and then passed down as family heirlooms and worn for their stylishness.
Signet rings have also taken on more than just their historical meaning and have become synonymous with modern style and contemporary icons. From actors and musicians to politicians and royalty, there have been many notable and famous people who love signet rings. Michael Caine, Prince Charles, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra and Bruno Mars are rarely seen without sporting a stylish signet ring. Winston Churchill was famous for never taking off his gold signet ring.
What finger do you wear a signet ring on?
There is no correct finger for a signet ring as it can be made to fit any finger the wearer chooses. Traditionally signet rings are worn on the pinkie finger of your non-dominant hand, your left hand if you write with your right hand. This was because it was easier to stamp the ring in the wax without having to remove the signet ring. However, how you wear a signet ring is up to the wearer, as modern signet rings can be worn as a wedding ring or even as a statement ring. So there is no "right" way on how to wear a signet ring.
Celebrate years of membership or start a new chapter with an heirloom for your family. Shop new and pre-owned signet rings with William May.
