We've all been there: scrolling through an online marketplace and spotting a deal that looks too good to be true. Maybe it's a sparkling 'diamond' ring or a chunky 'gold' chain that's a fraction of what you'd expect to pay on the high street. While we all love a bargain, the reality of the jewellery market right now is a bit more worrying.

With 24% of online listings suspected to be fake, the risk of ending up with a worthless imitation is real. It's estimated that 150,000 counterfeit gold items enter the UK market each year. In this guide, William May CEO Nick Withington shares expert tips on how to tell if gold is real and the key warning signs you need to look out for.

In this guide…

How common is counterfeit jewellery?

It's easy to think that fake jewellery is something you only find on a holiday market stall, but it's become way more common than you might expect.

As we've taken our shopping habits online, scam artists have, unfortunately, followed us. While online marketplaces are far more convenient, they're also the perfect hiding spot for fraudsters. These sellers usually rely on your trust in familiar-looking stamps and professional-looking photos to sell items that are actually made of cheap base metals like brass or copper, with a thin, deceptive plating.

The gap between how a listing looks and what actually turns up in the post can be huge, and the categories that counterfeiters target the most are usually high-ticket items, including:

These are pieces that don't just cost a lot — they often have more sentimental value, which makes the discovery of a fake even more heartbreaking.

Research from the UK Intellectual Property Office (IPO) supports this. Their data shows that watches are consistently among the most counterfeited accessories worldwide.

What's even more surprising is that their research found that 10% of consumers admitted to buying counterfeit jewellery in the past year — whether that's knowingly or accidentally. Since luxury goods are still one of the most seized counterfeit categories in Europe, we all need to be more vigilant when browsing to learn how to spot fake gold or silver.

Why does it matter whether jewellery is real or fake?

You might think that, as long as a piece looks good, it doesn't really matter whether it's the real deal, but there's a lot more at stake than just the price tag.

Aside from the financial loss of paying gold prices for a piece of copper, the biggest concern is actually your safety. Counterfeit jewellery, especially pieces that sit directly against your skin like earrings, can contain harmful heavy metals like lead, cadmium, and nickel.

These materials are often used because they're cheap and easy for manufacturers to work with, but they can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions. But even more concerning are the long-term health risks if these metals get absorbed through your skin. When you buy genuine precious metals from a trusted source, you aren't just paying for the look, you're paying for the peace of mind that what you're wearing is safe for your body.

What are the common signs a piece could be fake?

Learning the red flags is the first step in protecting yourself. While some fakes can be pretty convincing, there are usually still some subtle clues that give the game away if you know where to look.

Nick Withington, CEO at William May, notes: "Genuine precious metals typically age evenly, whereas plated items may show flaking or discolouration at the edges. Poor craftsmanship, such as uneven settings, visible glue, or misaligned stones, is another warning sign. Weight can also be telling; precious metals feel denser than many substitutes. With gemstones, overly vivid colour or perfect clarity can indicate synthetics. Finally, unclear or missing hallmarks or unrealistic pricing should prompt caution."

Let's dive a bit deeper into those red flags so you know exactly what to look for:

 1. Uneven discolouration

One of the easiest ways to spot a plated item is to check the "wear points". These are the bits that rub against your skin or clothes. Genuine 9ct gold jewellery or silver will age consistently, leaving you with a rich patina that shows the piece has been well-loved without looking damaged.

If you see flaking or a different coloured metal (like a dull brownish or greenish tint) peeping through at the edges of a link or the underside of a ring, it's a clear sign of a base metal that's just been dipped to look like gold.

Plated jewellery also has a very yellow colour that looks unnatural compared to the soft, warm glow of solid gold. If you've noticed a piece that doesn't match any of your other gold jewellery, this could be a warning sign.

2. Poor craftsmanship

High-quality jewellery is made with care and attention to detail. Counterfeit pieces, on the other hand, are usually churned out in huge batches in factories with zero regard for the smaller details. Take a close look: do you see any visible glue around the stones? Are the settings wonky? Do the stones feel like they might wobble out?

Check the clasps and the solder joints. On a real gold necklace, the joints should be smooth and almost invisible. On a fake, you might see rough edges or even a different metal colour where the pieces have been joined. A genuine jeweller would never let a piece with those kinds of flaws out of their workshop.

3. It’s lightweight

If you've ever held a solid gold bar or even a chunky platinum ring, you'll know that precious metals have a distinct weight to them. They feel solid in your hand, even if the piece itself is relatively small. If a chunky-looking necklace feels as light as a bit of plastic or aluminium, it's almost certainly not the real deal.

This is especially true if you're trying to spot fake gold chains, since the weight should be noticeable as soon as you pick it up. Gold is one of the densest elements on Earth, so even a small piece of 18k gold should feel surprisingly heavy for its size.

4. Gemstone appearance

When it comes to learning how to spot fake diamonds, you actually need to look for perfection — because that's usually a sign it's fake. Natural diamonds tend to have tiny 'inclusions' (debris) or flaws that developed while they were forming naturally. If a stone is clear and has a suspiciously vivid, rainbow-like sparkle, it might be cubic zirconia or even glass.

Check the edges of the stone under a magnifying glass. Diamond is the hardest substance known to man, so these edges should be sharp and crisp. A fake stone will often have slightly rounded or fuzzy edges where the material has worn down or was cut less precisely.

5. Pricing

This is the oldest rule in the book. Gold and silver have market prices that change every day. If someone is selling a brand-new, heavy 14k gold chain for a fraction of what the raw gold itself would be worth, you should be asking why.

Fraudsters count on the lure of a bargain to make you ignore all the other red flags. Always check the current market price of gold before buying; if the price of the finished jewellery is lower than the metal's scrap value, it's almost always a guaranteed fake.

6. The “green finger” effect

If your 'gold' ring leaves a green or black mark on your finger after a few hours, it's a big red flag that it might not be as genuine as you think.

This is especially common with fake silver rings that are actually silver-plated copper.

How to test gold and silver at home

If you’re wondering how to test gold at home after receiving a gift or treating yourself to a new piece on a whim, we’ve got you covered. 

While no at-home check is 100% foolproof, they're really useful as a first line of defence. If a piece fails any of these, it's a strong sign you need a professional to take a look.

Look for hallmarks & stamps

Checking for a hallmark is the most reliable quick test you can do when you receive a piece of jewellery. Authentic pieces will almost always have a stamp that indicates their metal purity. But you've got to be careful; learning how to spot fake 18k gold stamp marks is just as important. 

Some fakes carry stamps that look right at a glance but are blurry, wonky, or misplaced entirely. A real hallmark in the UK is struck with a punch while the metal is still hardening, leaving a very clean and defined indentation. If the mark looks "puffy" or shallow, it might have been cast as part of the fake piece rather than stamped into it.

Test with a magnet

You can use a strong magnet as a basic screening tool. Genuine gold, silver, and platinum are non-magnetic, so if your jewellery is jumping towards a magnet, it's a sure sign that there's a lot of iron or steel inside it.

As Nick warns,"A magnet test can indicate whether a piece contains other metals, as precious metals are generally non-magnetic. Many counterfeit alloys are non-magnetic, and modern synthetics can closely mimic natural stones. However, without professional equipment, these checks should only be seen as preliminary indicators rather than conclusive proof of authenticity."

Check the weight & feel

Gold has a very specific feel. If you're checking a chain, let the links slide through your fingers. Real gold should feel smooth and almost "oily" in its movement because it's a soft, self-lubricating metal. 

On the other hand, cheap alloys often feel a bit scratchy, stiff, or "tinny" when they move against each other. It's one of those things that's hard to describe until you feel it, but it's a great way to help you spot signs of a fake.

Carry out a visual inspection

Grab a magnifying glass or a jeweller's loupe (a small, wearable magnification tool used by jewellers to check fine details) if you can. Look really closely at the surface of your jewellery.

Are there tiny bubbles under the surface? That's a common sign of a casting error in a cheap fake. Is the "gold" peeling away in the corners? These are all tell-tale giveaways of a plated piece rather than solid metal.

You should also look at the hallmark area specifically; sometimes fraudsters will solder a real hallmarked clasp onto a fake chain. Check that the metal colour on the clasp matches the rest of the piece.

What are hallmarks, and why do they matter?

A hallmark isn't just a random number; it's an official stamp that acts as your guarantee of a piece's metal purity and origin.

Nick explains, "Hallmarks are a key indicator of metal purity and origin. In the UK, genuine gold will typically display marks such as 375, 585, or 750, indicating 9ct, 14ct, or 18ct, respectively. Silver is often marked 925 (sterling), while platinum commonly shows 950. These marks are usually found on discreet areas, like the inside of rings, clasps, or pendant bails. A full hallmark will  also include an assay office symbol and sponsor's mark."

Under the Hallmarking Act 1973, it's actually illegal in the UK to sell or describe items made of gold, silver, platinum, or palladium as such without a valid hallmark if they weigh over a certain amount (1g for gold, 7.78g for silver). However, this doesn't apply retroactively to older, vintage pieces, so jewellery without a hallmark isn't always a fake.

"Absence of a hallmark isn’t always a red flag," Nick adds, "particularly for antique or lightweight pieces, but it does warrant closer inspection and professional testing before purchase or valuation."

Here's your quick cheat sheet for the numbers you want to see:

  • Gold — 375 (9ct), 585 (14ct), 750 (18ct), 916 (22ct)
  • Silver — 925 (Sterling), 958 (Britannia)
  • Platinum — 850, 900, 950, 999

You can learn more about jewellery hallmarks here.

Can a hallmark be faked?

Unfortunately, a stamp on its own isn't a 100% guarantee because anyone can buy a stamping kit online. This is why knowing how to spot fake 750 gold stamp marks is so vital — you need to look at the quality of the stamp itself. Hallmarks can also be lasered as well as stamped, so spotting the real thing can be tricky.

Genuine hallmarks in the UK are usually paired with the symbol of the Assay Office that tested it (the anchor for Birmingham, the leopard's head for London, the rose for Sheffield, or the castle for Edinburgh). If you only see "750" and nothing else, you should be suspicious.

Nick warns, "Commonly recognised purity stamps such as 750 (18ct gold) or 925 (sterling silver) are frequently misused on counterfeit items. Fraudsters rely on the assumption that buyers will trust these numbers without question. A genuine hallmark is typically crisp, evenly struck, and accompanied by additional assay marks, whereas counterfeit stamps may appear shallow, blurred, or inconsistent."

"Placement can also be a clue; authentic marks are carefully positioned, not randomly applied. Ultimately, the presence of a stamp alone is not proof of authenticity; it should always be considered alongside craftsmanship, weight, and, ideally, professional verification."

When to consult a professional

While the tips we've shared are great for a quick check, they can't replace the decades of experience a professional jeweller brings to the table. If you've inherited a piece, bought something online that doesn't feel right, or received a gift that seems a bit "off", professional verification is the only way to be 100% sure.

At William May, every piece in our collection — whether new or pre-owned — undergoes a rigorous inspection process before it reaches our shop floor.

Nick breaks down how this works," At William May, we use a combination of advanced tools and expertise to authenticate jewellery. Acid testing provides additional confirmation where appropriate. Gemstones are examined using microscopes and spectrometers to distinguish natural from fake stones. To ensure trust, every piece undergoes rigorous inspection before being offered for sale, and we provide clear descriptions and guarantees, giving customers confidence in both the quality and authenticity of their purchase."

The safest way to avoid fakes is to buy from a reputable, established jeweller. Taking a risk on a random online listing might save you a few quid upfront, but it could cost you everything if the piece is worthless.

Frequently asked questions

Can you test gold with a lighter?

You've probably seen those viral videos where people suggest testing gold with a lighter flame to see if it changes colour. While it's true that real gold won't darken or melt under a normal lighter flame, we don't recommend it. 

If the piece is plated, heat can cause the plating to bubble or peel, ruining the item instantly and potentially releasing chemicals into the air. Plus, some high-quality fakes use heat-resistant metals, so it's not even a definitive test. You could end up with a ruined piece of jewellery and still not know for sure if it's real.

How to tell if a diamond is real with a torch?

If you're trying to figure out how to tell if a diamond is real with a torch, you're looking for a "refractive index". This is basically how the light bounces around. Hold a torch up to the stone and look inside; a real diamond will have a white brilliance inside with greyish shadows.

If you see intense rainbow colours inside the stone (like a prism), it's more likely to be a fake stone made from something like cubic zirconia. 

Another quick torch test is the "transparency test" — if you can shine a light through the stone and see clearly through to the other side, it's probably glass, as diamonds refract light so much that they aren't fully transparent in that way.

Is sterling silver real silver?

Yes, it definitely is! 

Because silver is too soft to be used for jewellery, it's often mixed with other metals (usually copper) to make it strong enough to wear. To be called "sterling", it has to contain at least 92.5% pure silver — that's where the "925" hallmark comes from. 

Learning how to spot fake silver involves looking for the crisp 925 mark and checking for any base-metal "bleeding" through the surface. Real silver also has a very distinct, metallic smell. If your "silver" pieces smell more like old pennies or sulphur, they're likely plated over a base metal.

What is "fool’s gold"?

In the jewellery world, this usually refers to iron pyrites or other minerals that look like gold but are actually (sadly) worthless. Modern "fool's gold" is more likely to be brass or lead that's been chemically treated or plated. These fakes are designed to trick the eye, but they fail the weight test every time.

Buy jewellery with confidence at William May

Spotting counterfeit jewellery can feel like a minefield, but by keeping an eye out for dodgy craftsmanship, checking those hallmarks, and being wary of prices that seem suspiciously low, you can protect yourself.

If you want to skip the guesswork entirely, the best approach is to shop with someone you trust. At William May, we have over 200 years of experience in the jewellery industry. Whether you're after a brand-new gift or a one-of-a-kind vintage piece, our experts have checked every item to make sure it's the real deal, so you can shop with confidence.

Explore our range of jewellery today and find something that's built to last a lifetime.