William May Gold Chain Style Guide
At first glance, you might think that all chains are similar but once you start to look closely at the different link shapes, you’ll see so many different choices and thoughtful design differences. Most chain designs are unisex, but subtle differences can make a style lend more to ladies jewellery or men’s jewellery. We’ll take you through our extensive guide to unisex chains and you’ll find the perfect chain design to fit your style.
Anchor or Gucci Chains
The links in an anchor chain are oval links with a bar horizontally across the link. There are lots of variations on this link style to make a heavier design. The anchor chain gets its namesake from the chains used on ships to pull up anchors. This type of link has also been adopted by Gucci, as most Gucci jewellery features this type of link. The Anchor or Gucci link is perfect for necklaces and especially if you’re looking for something more ornate than a curb chain but still quite classic in design.
Albert Chains
Named after Queen Victoria’s husband the Albert chain was originally designed for pocket watches. The T-bar on these chains would tuck inside a buttonhole and then the pocket watch would sit at the other end in your pocket. These necklaces have kept the notable T-bar but almost as a pendant. The design is very simple but very elegant and looks fantastic as a formal necklace for men.
Bar Chains
Bar necklaces and bracelets have quite a few variations from single bars linked together with small ovals, to seamless bars as if almost as if they were beaded. The versatility of this design means it can be for necklaces or bracelets, and for men or women. The longer bars suit more feminine pieces and we even have a few bar chain necklaces with diamonds set in the bars. Shorter bars look more masculine especially when the link is quite thick.
Bead/Ball Chains
Bead or Ball chains are most associated with military dog tags and are strings of tiny metal beads. The beads look close together but there is usually a small gap between them. The association with the military has meant they suit a more casual look which makes them perfect to wear with a pendant, style with jeans, or even take on holiday.
Although bead and ball chains are more commonly used for men's jewellery there has been a style revolution for beaded chains, especially for ladies jewellery. These beaded chains feature a mix of regular chain link with beading. They are called bobble chains, bead satellite or bead station link chains. These bobble chains look great for layering with other non-beaded chains adding more thought and style options to necklace stacks. The bobble also can offset a pendant beautifully creating an everyday look that’s subtle but very chic.
Belcher Chains
Belcher chains are part of the trace chain family, but the links are perfectly round or oval shaped. They can also be known as Rolo link chains. Belcher chains make great necklaces for pendants as the design details are quite understated which adds to the natural versatility of the design. The links can even be patterned or smooth to add extra design details.
Box or Venetian Box Chains
Box chains may sound simple, but once you see the patterns forming from several links together, this might just be your new favourite chain. The simple design features square links that lock together to form a strong rectangular chain. Its design originates from Italy and, sometimes it is called a Venetian Box chain. We would recommend wearing this as a bracelet or a necklace and, depending on how thick the links are, box chains are perfect for wearing every day with pendants as well. Choose a slightly thicker chain if you want to show off the clever way the links fit together.
Box Cage Chains
Box cage chains mix the best of all link shapes with lots of oval links encased together with thick square links. The result is unique and complex and gives this chain a lot of character without being fussy. The box cage design looks a little more masculine but can easily be worn as a feminine bracelet. We think the box chain looks best without a pendant and, if you’re looking to up your chain game but still looking for something bold, with clean lines and a sleek design, then the box chain is for you.
Byzantine Chains
Byzantine chains are comprised of lots of links intricately twisted together. The nature of the links balances minimalist but a bold aesthetic. Byzantine chains can be flat or square on profile. They are usually fairly thick chains which makes them perfect for wearing without a pendant. If you’re looking for a more feminine Byzantine chain, then we’d suggest a style with very close-knit links and give a more snake-like look. If you’re looking for something more masculine, then flat links can look really striking. These work well as necklaces are bracelets and are perfect for more formal occasions.
Celtic Chains
Celtic chains have beautiful woven links that feature Celtic knots. Some of the links are smooth while others are textured. This alternating design shows the link pattern and highlights how the links layer on top of each other. Celtic chains look great for formal occasions and can be worn by either men or women. The knot design adds a unique design feature that makes these chains stand out compared to curb and trace chains but not as elaborate as a byzantine chain.
Curb Chains
Curb chains are the most recognisable of all chains and one that most people will be familiar with. Curb links are either oval or square with a either a slight twist or flat design allowing the next link to slot neatly within the connecting link. The chain can then lie flat and doesn’t kink easily which makes it the ideal chain for pendants. The thicker the curb chain the more masculine it looks. Curb chains can look similar to Cuban chains but there are a few key differences which you can read about in our Menswear Chain Style guide.
Fancy Chains
A fancy chain can mean many different things; the link sizes can be very ornate and vary in size from large art deco designs to finer traditional designs. Some fancy chain designs incorporate the pendant into the design so, you couldn’t swap for another. This design feature makes a real standout designer necklace and not just you’re every day layering piece. When these necklaces are made with a pendant they are perfect for weddings or black-tie occasions. The pendant may also give a nod to the link shape, such as teardrop-shaped links and a stone with a teardrop cut as well. Although these may not be the most versatile chains they will be noticeable and the perfect accompaniment to many looks.
Figaro Chains
Figaro chains are the ideal chain if you are looking for something a little more interesting than a trace or curb chain but not as ornate as a byzantine chain. The links are oval and the same shape but every three, four or five links there is an extra link which is slightly longer. This design detail keeps this chain from being too plain but not so ornate you can’t wear it with a pendant. The longer link is usually oval-shaped, but it can be slightly rectangular as well.
Franco Chains
The Franco chain is an Italian chain comprised of lots of oval links used in curb chains. Instead of being in a single strand, these chain links are interwoven together to create an unusual pattern with interlocking v shapes. Franco chains can look similar to foxtail chains, but the links have a more chevron shape to them and usually have simple sleek surfaces. These are great chains to wear every day and layering with other chains.
POW (Prince of Wales Chains)
POW or Prince of Wales chains are similar to rope chains, but the links are not as tightly knitted together. Each link is a soft oval which adds to the quiet sophistication of the design. There is more movement and flexibility in these chains which means that pendants hang well from them and it still has the strength and durability of a stronger chain like Rope or Spiga.
Rope Chains
As you might have guessed the rope chains look similar to the woven nature of rope or string. As these chains get thicker the way the links are woven together becomes more of a stand out feature. The links are fairly tightly locked together similar to a foxtail chain. Ropes chains combine lots of design features such as interlocking links, understated twists and are still easily worn every day.
Spiga Chains
Spiga di Grano is Italian for an ear of corn, which is where this chain gets its name from. The
links are woven together in a stunning V shape design just like wheat or corn. Spiga chains look delicate but they are very strong due to the way the links tessellate together in a figure of eight pattern. Spiga chains can be easily layered with other necklaces and worn with pendants.
Twist Chains
Twist chains are instantly recognisable from other chains as the links are fitted together so the chain will stay in a twisted pattern. They can also be known as Twisted curb or Singapore chains. Twist chains are different from a curb chain that has a twist in the links so that they lie flat. The twist makes these chains perfect for everyday and formal occasions. One of our favourite layering combinations is a trace chain with a pendant and twist chain. This will elevate your necklace layering styling by using different link shapes and woven patterns rather than layering chains that are too similar.
Tulip Chains
The tulip chain is another design that has been named after its shape. The links are oval-shaped but with thick curves on one side which makes them look like open tulips. The links traditionally have elaborate engravings and patterns on them as well which makes them more suited to formal occasions.
Woven Chains
Woven chains always feature several links connected rather than a single chain like a curb or trace chain. Once you see woven designs, you will realise there are so many possibilities for this type of chain. The link pattern is what characterises a woven chain, so they make great chains for pendants if you want something more interesting than a curb or belcher chain. Having so many links connected makes these chains a lot more durable than a single link chain. If you are looking for something to wear every day or with a heavy pendant, a woven chain is for you.
Hollow Vs Solid Link Chains
This is one of the most common questions we get asked when buying a chain; what’s the difference between hollow and solid link chains? Hollow links as you might have guessed are not completely solid metal. The chain will feel significantly lighter, and it is better to not use these for heavy pendants. Hollow chains make ideal chains if you only want to wear them for a short period of time such as formal occasions or dress wear. Some hollow links are also used for large links on bracelets where the bracelet would be too heavy if made with solid links.
Solid links are completely made of metal and therefore they are heavier, as more materials are used. Chains with solid links are the best if you want to wear a chain every day and you are looking for something very durable. The strength of solid links also means that they are the ideal chain to wear with a heavy pendant.
With so many different varieties of names and link designs, it can be confusing to know the difference between chain necklaces.
Our comprehensive guide to unisex chains lets you know the best chains for everyday wear or for that special occasion. Whether you’re looking for a statement piece or something to layer you are sure to find a link that suits your style from William May.
Shop gold heavy curb chains, sterling silver belcher chains to classic Figaro chains and many more at William May.
